Does Your Pattern MEASURE UP: Gauge Tips for Designers

Today, the wonderful Patty Lyons, a prolific designer, experienced teacher, and dear friend of our co-founder Michele Costa, shares some valuable insights into the often underestimated world of gauge in knitting. 

Patty takes us on a journey through the intricacies of pattern writing, highlighting your role as the designer in ensuring every knitter's success with your patterns. From the importance of providing realistic measurements to considering side-to-side constructions, Patty covers it all. 

This post is a treasure trove of knowledge for both aspiring and seasoned designers, offering practical tips and extra guidance. Dive into Patty's expert advice now and take your knitting patterns to the next level!

Take it away Patty…

I know what you’re thinking – what do we need to know about gauge? We write down how many stitches and rows are in 4” / 10 cm and what needle size we used – done? Not so fast. When it comes to pattern writing, it is in the designer’s hands to help a knitter succeed or utterly fail. 

Let’s consider a few vital elements

We’ve all read the comments on Ravelry asking “how did the designer get that gauge?” If a customer sees a pattern using DK weight yarn with a US 6 / 4 mm needle with a stockinette gauge of 18 sts per 4” / 10 cm, they may, understandably, think something is amiss.

Being a great designer, doesn’t automatically mean one is a great knitter. If you, or your sample knitter knits to a gauge that is out of the ordinary, it will be very difficult for the average knitter to succeed.

(Note: To improve knitting technique, check the class Improve Your Knitting: Alternative Methods & Styles)

Think of the gauge in your patterns as measurements in a recipe. We need to provide all the information we can to help the knitter!

1) Stitch and Row gauge in dominant stitch pattern

Gone are the days of an all lace or cable sweater listing the gauge in stockinette. This was back in the day when patterns were published by yarn companies and they weren’t too keen on a knitter making a substitution.

2) Multiple gauges

Just because a knitter can match stockinette gauge doesn’t mean they can match a gauge in stitch pattern. This is particularly important when it comes to row gauge. Say you have a stockinette sweater, with a stranded color work yoke. Since row gauge is make or break to having a yoke fit properly, not including the stranded knitting gauge could be tragic.

Then there’s aesthetics. When you list a gauge it automatically encourages the knitter to swatch. Say you have a stockinette sweater with a cable or lace panel. If the knitter only swatched in stockinette they might not find out that the slightly fuzzy rope ply yarn, that they love in the stockinette, they do not love in the lace. 

3) Stitch panel width (v.s. stitch gauge)

You might also want to give some thought to how you list the gauge for a stitch pattern whose stitch multiple has nothing to do with the stitches per inch.

For instance. Say you have a 38-stitch cable. The entire width of the cable measures 5 ¼” / 13.5 cm wide. Back in the bad old days, a pattern would translate that in a traditional stitches per 4” /10 cm gauge. But, saying that 38 stitch cable is 29 sts per 4” / 10 cm is not very helpful to the knitter. Far better to simply list it’s completed, blocked width.

Ah, speaking of blocking . . . don’t assume all knitters understand that a finished gauge in a pattern means blocked. Help a knitter out here and be specific.

For instance, if you worked with a yarn that shrunk up after you blocked, you might want to list this after the gauge. Note: This yarn does shrink up a bit after wet blocking. Be sure to measure gauge BLOCKED. 

Or if you are working a shawl that has to be aggressively blocked, lots of knitters don’t know what that means. A brief description of the blocking process might help. Heck, turn it into a win/win, if you took pictures of you blocking a circular shawl and posted them on Instagram, link to it! You may just gain a few followers.

Let’s be honest. We know knitters don’t always measure their row gauge. So, it’s up to us to think about how we communicate our gauge or write our pattern when it really counts.

1) Rows not inches

When a pattern says “now work straight until armhole measures 8”/20 cm”, WE know that means “now work straight until you have completed 8”/20 cm of your finished row gauge”, but most knitters don’t know that. They simply take their tape measure to their unblocked knitting, all bunched up on their needles. In many cases, that’s not going to be the end of the world, but there are times when this will be tragic.

If you are working on a yarn that grows to it’s full length (think bamboo, superwash merino, nylon etc.) with gravity, it make be best to write the pattern in the language of rows. If you were to tell a knitter to work until piece measured 8” /20 cm from hem to waist, but you know once it’s blocked and worn, that 8”/10 cm will grow to 9 ½” /24 cm, then write the pattern in rows. To reinforce this, you might want to add a note to the schematic that says “measurements show are blocked."

2) How to measure

If you do have to use inches in your instructions, then giving the knitter a tip as to how to measure is very helpful. If you have a long garment and it’s weight and gravity that will cause it to grow, you might add a note in your pattern that says “To simulate gravity, gently stretch when measuring length.”

3) Side to side

If you design is a side-to-side construction, then it’s vital to have a clear schematic and notes about gauge. Since many knitters are used to matching stitch gauge and (gasp) ignoring row gauge, if your sweater width is dictated by row gauge not stitch gauge, that should be clearly noted.

Not to open a big ole’ can of worms, but more and more knitters are expecting extra help to come with patterns. I would never suggest this is required, and PLEASE consider pricing your patterns accordingly if you are adding extra help. Whatever works for your business model, just don’t try to turn an $8 pattern into a knitting how-to book. So, offered only for your consideration:

1) Swatching Instructions

There are times when pattern has multiple gauges or complex measurements, where a bit of extra guidance could be helpful. You could create a document with a small swatching how-to document and link to it from your pattern.

2) Gauge document or alternative cast-on

You might have something simple like a cowl or a scarf where you could offer and alternative number of stitches to cast on for a different gauge.

When it comes to sweater knitting, you might consider linking to a tutorial on how to make some simple alternations if the knitter doesn’t match your stitch or row gauge.

To learn more about simple gauge alteration ideas, you can check out my class Make Your Gauge Work.

The more detailed information you can provide to assist the knitters in succeeding the more finished products there will be out there in the world. More finished products to ohh and ahh over on Instagram and Ravelry means more pattern sales!

-Patty Lyons
Instagram: @pattyjlyons
Patty Lyons DLP